Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Best Selling in Safes
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Save on Safes
Operationally, structurally & aesthetically my little safe is sound yet spartan by design. The electronics work seamlessly. The code, keys, fingerprint reader & LED lighting all work well. This safe is quite pricey given that it is neither fireproof nor waterproof. I consider it more of a modern high-end strongbox than a safe. Here are the reasons that I chose this unit: PRO’S 1. Sized perfectly for bedroom or office closets 2. Ability to elevate off of the floor & lag bolt down on at least 2 surfaces 3. 2 large security deadbolts 4. Continuous welds & precision cuts 5. Structural reinforcement about the deadbolt receivers 6. Space for cash, small firearms, ammunition & critical documents with shelf 7. Interior LED lighting 8. Triple access (key, code, biometric) 9. High quality, non standard key system 10. Superior construction quality & fitment 11. Durable military finish 12. Approximately 29.61% discount off new price ($120 vs. $170) I discovered a few bonuses shortly after unboxing & programming as follows: a. 2 spare shelf hangers were included b. LED light module appears purpose built & well fitted into a metal, welded in structural box section. c. The structural box that is the deadbolt receiver is connected to the box that is the LED lighting receiver. This inverted ‘L’ shaped rectangular section reinforces the entire outside edge opposite the hinge. Viking could have easily just used a cheap generic LED light with Velcro or double sided tape. Instead they took advantage of that edge space to enhance strength & rigidity. My features & specifications grade: 92% CONS 1. I found 2 wear spots along the bottom edge of my unit where the coating is worn down to the bare metal. These could've & should've been touched up before sale. My refurbish grade: 94% 2. Overall packaging is good. But the hardware, batteries, L- wrench & keys escaped the cheap Ziploc bags & scattered all over the packaging interior. They should’ve been wrapped in bubble wrap & secured inside the unit. A bit more foam should be used about the exterior to protect the finish. Only 2 pieces of foam were found protecting the face of the electronics. The thick boxing & doubling around upper & lower perimeters worked well. It isn’t the best packaging effort that I’ve seen, especially given this price point. My packaging Grade 84% 3. The weakest point is hinge strength. At this price point the door hinges are my focus absent hinge side deadbolts. I would prefer extending the same structural reinforcement around the front edge & adding 2 more deadbolts on the hinge side. 2 additional deadbolts at center top & bottom would dramatically increase strength beyond that of the box itself. I would only expect such a measure in an actual fireproof & waterproof ‘safe’. The hinge bosses are welded in but the axle diameter of each hinge pin is about 1/4 that of the door hinges. This makes the hinges the weakest points on the unit. My hinge grade: 77% My overall grade weighs features & specifications 50%, refurbishment 20% & packaging 10% & hinge grade 20%. GT = (0.92 x 0.5) + (0.94 x 0.2) + (0.84 x 0.1) + (0.77 x 0.2) = 0.886 or 89% I didn’t miss the keypad backlighting that other reviewers experienced. I found that it opened quickly & quietly enough not to give away your position in an emergency situation. You will need to lock the unit to silence the alarm though. It’s not perfect. It’s comparatively expensive. If you want the best quality per dollar available like I do, you simply have to pay for it. WHAT IS MISSING? Destructive testing of the weakest points. Destructive testing & bypassing of the face plate electronics. More complete basic strength testing will destroy several units in various stages. Here are my proposed first 6 stages of testing on a single unit. Stage 1, I would forcibly remove or destroy the digital face & attempt to directly activate the servos that move the deadbolts. I should fail due to signal encryption. Stage 2, Next, I would pry on the NE & or the SE corners of the door nearest the small diameter hinges. They will either break or be strong enough to repel my attempts. Stage 3, If both Stage 1 & 2 attempts fail, next comes the pummel test using a sledge hammer with violence. Stage 4, If that fails, next comes the die grinder test that surely will cut open the safe by simply cutting the 2 weakest points at the hinge pins. Stage 5, With the unit now open we should have raw materials before us that can be tested & timed for acetylene oxygen torch cutting to relate the unit's resistance to the forcible use of thermal energy. Stage 6, I would employ simple hand cutting tools in a timed attempt by cutting the remaining hinge sections extracted from the destroyed unit. (fine hacksaw blades) I am confident that I can get in. The questions are how long will each attempt take? Which attempt will succeed quickest & with the least amount of energy? Such is the purpose of destructive testing.Read full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Refurbished
Nice safe for the price. So far all the security electronics seem to work well. Like the fact it allows 3 entry options (fingerprint, passcode, or key) in case one fails due to low batteries, etc.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
This safe is very well built.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned